The Yagnob valley in all its glory
Lonely planet: In the remote Yagnob Valley, nearly the last ridge of the Fans before they descend towards the Tajik capital, Dushanbe, villagers still speak a dialect of the Sogdian language that ancient traders might recognise.
A valley where a dying language is spoken, barely mentioned in travel guides:
this hint – no more than a suggestion – was enough to spark our curiosity. The Yagnob Valley, here we come! But to show that it was not as easy as it sounds, let’s go back in time for a moment in time.
Water, once again the lifesaver
Our encounter with the Fann Mountains was behind us, and after a few days of rest at Iskanderkul Lake, the next adventure was calling. We were lucky enough to find a ‘taxi’ willing to take us to Sarvoda. But first, we had to give the car a push to get it started. Once it gained momentum, though, we reached our next transfer point, Sarvoda, smoothly.
There, we arranged another taxi to Margeb, the gateway to the Yagnob Valley, though it didn’t go as planned.
Only one driver was willing to take us for an exorbitant price. Eventually, after a long wait, some local residents had to travel the same direction and managed to negotiate a fair price. But the ride itself was less smooth than we expected; the engine overheated repeatedly, and the driver expertly doused it with water. Our companions were only going as far as Anzob, which left us with an 8-kilometer trek to Margeb.
A curious look and…
… a welcoming smile
Determined, we set off on foot with our backpacks towards Margeb. There, we had heard, we might find a guide to help us navigate this remote region. On arrival, we were met with puzzled looks that seemed to ask what on earth tourists were doing here.
We soon realized that a friendly hello in Tajik (“Салом”), some hand gestures, and basic Russian (пешком, лошадь,…) were our only chances to secure a place to sleep and perhaps a meal.
Our host, Zafar, pointed out where to stow our bags and showed us how a pile of blankets could easily be turned into a bed. Over dinner, Zafar warmed to our plans, and it became clear that we could set off the next day with an experienced guide and a donkey for a six-day trek through the Yagnob Valley.
Zafar, our local guide checks out the potential apple harvest
Daily life in Margeb, starting point of the the Yagnob valley
Kashi, one of the Yagnob valley villages
Our next stop was Bedev, 22 kilometers ahead. The trek initially went smoothly, but we soon encountered our first ice-cold river crossing.
The sky grew dark, and rain began to fall.
Bedev was quiet, with little activity in sight, so we tried the next village. Across the Yagnob River, barking dogs welcomed us to Makhtimayn, a small settlement of two houses. After a short wait, the owner came to meet us, and we secured a place to sleep. The children were curious, and we exchanged stories, limited as they were by our language skills.
A proud father shows a photo of his child via a 3G network.
Cooking on the open fire where dried donkey dung serves as fuel.
The view from inside our sleeping place in Makhtimayn.
After a good night’s rest, we continued to Pskon, the next ‘village,’ just 15 kilometers further. With Zafar as our guide and our faithful donkey, we were joined by a friendly villager who was also headed to Pskon for a wedding.
A wedding that was only accessible on foot or by horseback? Pure serendipity! And yes: we were invited.
Our journey took us past ruins, where houses and even a watermill once stood. This abandonment was not just due to the remote location but also the result of historical events. In the late 1970s, Soviet rulers forced the valley’s residents to work on distant cotton plantations. Many Yagnobi died from the different climate, and others never returned. Only a few Sogdian villages, such as Kashi and Naumetkan, remain inhabited.
One of the rare bridges over the Yagnob River.
In the distance, we spotted the first houses of Pskon, and on arrival, we waited patiently while the guard dogs were calmed down.
Of course, we were welcomed with tea and took a moment to unwind.
But where was the wedding? After a few hours, it became clear that the wedding was scheduled for the next day, but we could already meet the groom and see the preparations.
The arrival in Pskon, thanks to our guide Zafar and his helpful donkey.
After a night of snoring in a creatively packed sleeping space, the celebrations began early in the morning. People from across the valley arrived with gifts.
Tea was served in abundance, and a hearty stew was provided for breakfast.
Men on the left, woman on the right
Men from all over the neighbouring villages are gathering to join the wedding
The best suit and the best view over the Yagnob valley.
I timidly photographed the events, but to my surprise, everyone was fine with it.
A hearty stew as breakfast…
… and fresh hot tea.
One room for the men…
As the wedding festivities progressed, women and men gathered, each in a separate room, to discuss the latest developments in their village.
…another for the woman.
The horse for the groom is being prepared; hooves are cut short, new horseshoes are being put on.
The groom was being prepared:
his tie was tied with the help of a smartphone video, his hair was trimmed, and offerings of money were thrown at him, and he mounted his newly adorned horse.
Together with a few brave villagers, we followed the procession to neighboring village, Garmen, where preparations for the bride had been started.
The groom leaves for the next village to get his wife, followed by energetic ‘competitors’
All the women in the village prepared themselves for this festive occasion;
their most beautiful dress, the most beautiful eye shadow, the most shiny lipstick.
No effort or expense was spared to celebrate this day.
The bride is ‘prepared’ and dressed for the party by the other women. Of course they use this opportunity to also help themselves to put on beautiful shiny lipstick and the darkest eye shadow.
The bride waits alone for her husband-to-be, while she says goodbye to her parental environment.
The festivities began with laughter, food, and dancing.
Everyone shared in the joy, except… the bride.
She looked on with a sad expression, preparing to leave her family and her village. Outside, the bride and groom finally met and with some simple words accompanied with a prayer the new couple got married.
Food is shared, music is played, a dance step is dared.
The bride’s belongings and dowry were expertly folded up to be taken to the groom’s village by horse and donkey.
From this moment on, the bride does not return to her parental home and village and enters a next phase of her life.
Everyone helped to load the bride’s things onto the donkeys.
The beautiful way in the Yagnob valley towards their new home…
The road of the Sogdian wedding
Whereas with us, often due to Hollywoodian influence,
there is room for love and romance during weddings, here it seems to be mostly a pragmatic event.
Luckily for us, this Sogdian wedding is adorned by traditional customs, and we already realised during this festive day what a unique event we were witnessing.
The bride and groom are welcomed in Pskon, their new home for their future life.
A welcome dance for the new married couple.
Curious eyes getting a first look at the bride.
The following morning, life in the valley returned to normal, and we, with a few more days ahead of us, made our way back to the beginning of the Yagnob Valley. Along the rainy return, various Yagnobi invited us for tea or even a meal, and once we arrived in Bedev, we were welcomed into a new host family after the guard dogs’ approval.
In the typical Yagnobi home, we were again warmly welcomed with tea and bread.
Our host, a devout Muslim, proudly shared his beliefs with us, and Zafar, our guide, felt compelled to join him in prayer. Outside, the clouds parted, revealing a stunning view of this magical valley.
The devotion of the locals of the Yagnob valley where Zoroastrianism meets Islam.
The endless hospitality and natural beauty of the Yagnob valley.
On our final day, we returned to Margeb, our guide’s village, with a detour to Khisortob, where time seemed to travel backward.
The remoteness and human warmth we encountered in this ancient Sogdian region gave us a glimpse into the lives of people during the golden era of the Silk Road.
Back then, Sogdian merchants were a crucial link in transporting goods from China to the rest of the world.
doors opened, stories were told….
During this linguistic adventure – communicating in our best Russian in a valley where a lost language is spoken – we experienced more than we ever dreamed.
We may have caught fragments of this ‘lost’ Sogdian language, but we certainly captured the spirit of its culture and hospitality, thanks to the purity of the Yagnobi people.
Zafar, a guide, a friend, a warm human being
Nightly darkness above the Yagnob valley with brightening milky way
Text and images from one of your world’s local photographers.
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